Maytag MTB1893ARS Operations Instructions download pdf (Page 35)

WARNING

To avoid risk of electrical shock that can cause death or severe personal injury, disconnect unit from power before

servicing unless tests require power. Discharge capacitors through a 10,000-ohm resistor before handling. Wires

removed during disassembly must be replaced on correct terminals to ensure proper grounding and polarization.

1. 1.

2. 2.

3. 3.

4. 4.

2. 2.

3. 3.

4. 4.

a. a.

b. b.

c. c.

d. d.

e. e.

g. g.

h. h.

i. i.

j. j.

6. 6.

a. a.

b. b.

c. c.

d. d.

e. e.

8. 8. Apply fresh coat of Alumilastic to thermostat

10.

11. 11.

12. 12.

1. 1.

2. 2.

3. 3.

4. 4.

6. 6.

1. 1.

2. 2.

3. 3.

4. 4.

5. 5.

6. 6.

1. 1.

9. 9.

5. 5.

Little or no Alumilastic on thermostat

Module housing damaged

Heater pins too short; don't contact module

Kinked water tube

Open or missing thermostat

Tighten housing-to-mold screws (20-26 in. lb.

or 22.8-29.6 cm/kg)

Housing-to-mold screws not seated

Broken shut-off lever (mislocated shut-off switch) Replace ice maker

Heater not staked in mold Replace ice maker

Wrong heater temperature Replace ice maker

Replace ice maker

Bail shut-off arm misformed Replace bail shut-off arm

Bail shut-off arm binds when raised or lowered

Water or ice in actuator/housing hole Remove module; dry actuator & housing holes

Actuator O.D. large or burred Replace ice maker

Housing hole small or burred Repair or replace ice maker

Replace ice maker

Bail shut-off arm in vacation mode — no ice Lower bail shut-off arm to begin cycle

Pressure must be 20 to 120 psi (1.4 to 8.2 bar).

Test by jumping "T" to "H" for 7.5 seconds;

then remove jumpers; catch water in glass.

Should be about 140 cc's.

Low water pressure

Open heater circuit Replace ice maker

Closed thermostat Replace ice maker

Damaged heater tulips on module Replace ice maker

Clogged water valve Replace water valve

No power to water valve Trace power to locate discontinuity

Un-kink water tube; check for weak spots

Clogged water tube to ice maker or refrigerator Clear stoppage

Jammed cubes (Notice cube size; hollow?) Clear cube jam; check fill tube & fill cup

Little or no water to ice maker (Notice cube size)

Frozen fill tube (leaky water valve) Replace water valve

Replace ice maker

No power to ice maker (harness) Trace power to locate discontinuity

No Ice or Low Ice Production

Motor stalled or stripped Replace ice maker

Adjust or repair freezer

Replace ice maker

Check ejector position

Contaminated module (Doesn't run when jumped

through "T" and "H" probe holes)

Replace ice maker

Freezer not cold enough

Module shut-off switch and contacts shorted & burned

Broken locking tab on vertical cam

Park (ejector at 2:30 position)

Replace ice maker

Ejector in 3:00 position

Contamination Replace ice maker

Jammed cubes (Notice cube size; hollow?) Clear cube jam

Ice maker or refrigerator not level Level as necessary

No power to ice maker Trace power to locate discontinuity

Ejector in 4:00 position

Contamination Replace ice maker

Adjust volume screw on module, change water

valve or lower water pressure

Excessive water-fill volume

Rack of cubes fell back into mold during ejection Install new fill cup; check fill tube assembly

Thermostat out of calibration Replace ice maker

Open heater circuit (motor should be oscillating) Replace ice maker

Broken locking tabs on vertical cam Replace ice maker

Little or no Alumilastic on thermostat Apply fresh coat of Alumilastic to thermostat

Heater not staked in mold Replace ice maker

Icemaker Troubleshooting Chart

1 2 ... 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 ... 56 57

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Maytag MTB1893ARS Operations Instructions Page 35

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